The Grill on the Alley

(Los Angeles) The Grill on the Alley is one of the very best spots, the sort that lasts, because it makes you feel at home, whether you are a Famous, or a Not-Famous. How does that sparkling maître d', Ms. Pamela Gonyea, do it? She knows everybody, and treats everybody as if they were a star! Once, we had the liver, bacon and onions, like it was 1950, and we were Victor Mature, and our anemia was cured. But mostly, we have the delicious shrimp and crab Louie salad, plus lots of bread sticks (eat the bread, Jeffrey! It won’t kill you). Have an Arnold Palmer. It’s not that kind of place. It’s the only place. (9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills)—Monroe Stahr